Ever wondered if all-inclusive actually works out better value? Sarah Loughlin compares two European cruises to find out! Read more…
Two Guernsey newbies discover the second biggest of the Channel Islands on a bicycle built for two.
Possibly the best thing about a tandem bicycle is that no matter how fast the person in front of you Pedals, they can’t get away. As much as Drew, my boyfriend, and the captain of our tandem, might have liked to as I sang the chorus of A Bicycle Built For Two on repeat.
We had picked up our tandem bike, fondly named Barry, at the airport. After a quick coin toss to see who would have to steer it, we set off. It was our first time on the island and from the moment we landed, with no airport queues or passport control, I knew we were going to get along with the place.
With my face pressed firmly into Drew’s backpack, I couldn’t see a thing, It was a strange sensation peddling but having no idea what the up coming road was like. There was almost something quite relaxing about pedalling, but not having to worry about navigating the country roads.
Our first port of call was the campsite, flying over to Guernsey from London and packing only as much as we could fit in our backpacks had meant we couldn’t take a tent or camping equipment. That is not a problem at Fauxquets Valley Campsite, which is about 10 minutes ride from the airport. Started in 1974 as a family business, the campsite runs between May and October offering pre-made tents, which they call Hire Tents, equipped with cooking facilities and proper beds with bedding included.
The campsite owners, Teresa from Wales and Roland from Guernsey, met in the French Alps about 10 years ago and took over the campsite from Roland’s parents in 2008. Fauxquets is ideal for families or couples alike, with a heated swimming pool and farm animals for the children; and a relaxing sun terrace and bar area for the adults. This campsite has full facilities, and they really have thought of everything including ironing boards, irons and free hair driers. They offer pizza and BBQ nights, as well as a small farm shop and cafe where you can pre- order fresh bread and pastries.
Once we had dumped our bags in the tent we set off to explore the Island. Back on the tandem, we had got the hang of getting the bike going with only a few hiccups, mostly at traffics lights with long queues of friendly islanders behind us chuckling to themselves. I had decided to captain Barry for our second trip, but I was starting to regret it.
‘Stop trying to steer from the back!’
‘You are, stop it. Why are you peddling, we are going down hill, stop peddling!’
I had never noticed before but Drew has a rather unique way of cycling which involves his entire body in a strange wiggling motion that starts somewhere around his shoulders and somehow results in the bike moving. This did not bode well with him as the passenger on the tandem, as he wobbled like jelly inadvertently steering the tandem from the back, more often than not into an on coming hedge.
Our destination was Fermain Bay, about 20 minutes ride from the campsite. As we approached the beach the road got very steep so we abandoned poor Barry at the top of the hill and continued on foot. After about 15 minutes the woody path opened up into a beautiful bay with the bluest sea I had ever seen. The contrast to the pebble beach, the cliff face and the leafy trees that topped it made it all the more impressive. Dumping our stuff by the sea wall we walked out to the water.
Guernsey has a lovely atmosphere, everyone is friendly and even on a warm summers day the beach was not crowded. It’s also a great place to cycle because cars and their drivers seem very easy going and are very courteous. I noticed this not only when on the bike but when crossing the road as well. No one really seems to be in a rush, which is nice. Even the bus drivers waited patiently behind the tandem as we trundled up the hill.
Heading back to the tent for dinner we stopped off for some ‘hedge veg’ from one of the many veg stalls in people’s front gardens dotted around the island. They sell home grown produce and have honesty boxes for payment. The peppers and courgettes we picked up were a fantastic accompaniment to our campsite feast.
Back on the plane again I felt the trip had gone far too quickly. ‘Gosh, my legs are so sore!’ Said drew as he gingerly settled into the plane seat. Doing a quick mental check of all my limbs, they seemed to be fine. Perhaps I wasn’t peddling quite as hard as I thought on those long old hills!
Getting there: If you fancy a break but don’t want to travel too far – go to Guernsey on your next trip for a bit of sun and a break from the norm, flights take less than an hour and start from roughly £50 return.
Sarnia Cycle Hire offer a tandem with drop off and collection from the airport for £26 per day or £80 for a week.
Fauxquets Valley Campsite Hire Tents from £55 per night based on two adults sharing.
Whether you think that the lack of snow this year is down to global warming, disgruntled Snow God’s, or just plain bad luck, the fact is there are a fair amount of resorts not opening their lifts this weekend due to snow conditions. If you have already booked a ski holiday for this Christmas and your resort is looking more golf course, than ski piste, read on!
‘No snow?! At Christmas??!’ I hear you cry, ‘This madness’…. And madness it will be, thousands of people are due to descend into resorts this week, and as I look out on the very green and leafy mountains of the Tirol in Austria I can’t help wondering how this will play out. One solution used by many ski resorts are snow cannons which create artificial snow. However due to unseasonably warm temperatures and humidity they are not able to use them to create snow for this coming weekend. To create artificial snow it needs to be around -2/-3C. Christmas Day this year in parts of the Tirol region are due to be between 8-10C.
This is not what we have come to expect on the 19th of December, most years there is some sort of covering on the mountain, enough for resorts to open, even if it’s only the higher ski runs. With the scientists reporting that the weather is getting warmer, the glaciers are shrinking and the altitude at which rain turns to snow getting ever higher, it begs the question of whether low lying resorts such as those in the Tirol will still be skiable in the future. However traveling around the Tirol and speaking to various locals over the last few days I am told this is not the first time this has happened. One hotelier tells me he can remember a season about 20 years ago where they didn’t get the first snow until mid January. He doesn’t think that this situation is new, but it just happens a bit more often than it used to. He is not worried though, ‘the snow will come’, he tells me, ‘it always does’.
I imagine there will be a lot of disappointed people at the airport this weekend, but don’t be one of them!! After all, It’s Christmas!!! Although not ideal if you had envisaged spending a week swanning around the slopes, there is plenty to do in resort if there is limited skiing. These are my top activities to make the most of your non-ski holiday this week!
1. Try something different…. Most resorts offer activities that don’t need snow, such as paraponting (running/ skiing off a hill while attached to a nice French/ Austrian man and floating down through the valley with a parachute). If you think this could be the new sport for you, do some research and try to book something before you get there, I imagine they will get very busy! Companies like Evolution 2 in France offer a wide range of non-skiing activities.
2. Relax….. There are normally great spa’s and sauna’s in ski resorts. Make the most of the time you don’t normally have when running between ski school, après and dinner to relax in the spa, take a steam, or get a massage. Depending on your budget and the resort you are in there is normally a few to choose from. Again, research before you go and get booked in, especially if you want treatments. This could also double as a cheeky last minute Christmas present for someone you are traveling with!!
3. Explore…. I think like a lot of keen skiers I have only ever visited the mountains in the winter. Until this autumn, when I spent some time in the French Alps. I completely fell in love with it, it is so beautiful and peaceful walking in the mountains; there are so many animals and amazing views. You can even burn off some of that Christmas dinner while getting out in the fresh air! Make the most of a chance to go for a nice long hike and see the mountains before they get buried again for another winter.
4. Get sporty…… If hiking and paraponting aren’t your thing, visit the local sports centre. Depending on the resort there are all sorts of activities from climbing and swimming, to ice skating and table tennis.
5. Go shopping…. Whether you are into tacky souvenirs, hand carved wooden statues or cool snowboard apparel you will find it up in the mountains. Again, something you don’t normally have time for on an action packed ski holiday, so make the most of the time to look around the shops and pick up a few cool Christmas presents for yourself (and/ or friends and loved ones!).
6. Pig out….. It wouldn’t be Christmas without eating yourself silly. The mountains are a great place to do it, with more cheese and carbs than you can shake a stick at! So treat everyday like Christmas and take long boozey lunches while praying to the Snow God’s for a midweek dump!
7. Après…. Just because there is no snow doesn’t mean you can’t indulge in the strange post-skiing afternoon tradition of watching live music, drinking beer and dancing on tables; other wise known as après ski. Plus you can hit it extra hard because you don’t have to be up early for ski school in the morning!!
8. Excursions…. Depending on the resort you are going to it is relatively easy to take the train to visit a nearby town or city. Check out my article on Salzburg for some inspiration!
Autumn is a time for weekend breaks. Not because weekends are particularly spectacular in autumn, but because you have run out of holiday allowance at work.
Unless by some miracle you have been rationing your holidays like a sensible person, in which case I applaud you!
I however, have not been lucky enough to squirrel away many holiday days! So will be spending the next few months wishing I had had a bit more self- control with those last minute summer bargains. And taking weekend breaks. Lots of them.
Here are my top picks to tide you over until the New (holiday) Year!!
October: Oslo, Norway. Friday 24th – Monday 27th October.
There is a choice of flights from London Stansted for £53 return.
On Booking.com I found the Anker Apartment which has both apartments and also dorm rooms depending on your budget; it is great value in a good location, £90.50 per person for three nights (based on two people sharing a twin room with a private bathroom and kitchenette) and it has good reviews on Tripadvisor. It has basic cooking facilities, which can be handy if you don’t want to spend too much money on eating out; Norway is notoriously pricey compared to the UK. On average a beer costs about £7. Traveling from the airport to town takes about an hour, you can either get the bus or train.
If I were going to Norway (which since doing the reading about the city, I might do just that!) this is how I would spend my weekend:
*All prices converted from Norwegian Krone to GBP to give you an idea of cost*
The Oslo Opera Festival is on during October – why not check out the performance of Madame Butterfly for free at the Clarion Hotel Royal Christiania. The performance starts at 7pm and the hotel is about 30 minutes walk from the Anker Apartment (see map below for location).
Norway has some fantastic history – spend the day exploring some of the museums:
The Edvard Munch Museum – Dedicated to Norwegian artist Edvard Munch whose famous works include The Scream. Adult entry £9, open from 11am-5pm, guided tours everyday at 1pm. Aprox 20 minutes walk from the Anker Apartment (see map below).
The Viking Ship Museum – Check out some genuine Viking ships! Entry £6, open 10-4pm. To get there from the Anker Apartment: Take the number 30 bus from the Dælenenga (stop next to the Anker Apartment) towards Bygdøy. Get off at Vikingskipshuset. Journey takes about 30 minutes and costs £9 for an all day bus ticket or £3 for a single journey if you buy your ticket before you get on the bus. For more information on getting around check out Oslo’s journey planning website.
Nobels Fredssenter (Nobel peace price museum) – Learn all about the history of the Nobel Peace Prize and some of the people who have received it such as Mother Teresa and Martin Luther King Jr. Adult entry £9, open 10am-6pm. 40 minutes walk from the Anker Apartment (see map below).
After your hectic weekend of learning about Norwegian culture and history make time to relax with a live band on Sunday afternoon at Bla, a well known Jazz Club. It is only 20 minutes walk from the Nobels Fredssenter and 20 minutes from the Anker Apartment (see map). There is a 4pm acoustic set, and an electric set at 8.30pm – free entry.
Not a museum fan? Don’t panic, here is plenty more to do! Check out the Everywhereist’s blog post on Oslo – its very funny. Lonley Planet has some good suggestions, and The Oslo Pass website has a page of ‘Top 10’s’ for every occasion.
The Oslo Pass is about £28 for the day and gives you access to various museums and sights, so if you are planning to have an action packed day it might work about cheaper than paying for attractions individually.
November: Jersey, UK. Saturday 8th – Monday 10th of November.
Flight and hotel package with the BA Holiday Finder for £99 per person based on two people sharing a room (breakfast included) at the Mayfair Hotel St Helier. This hotel has great reviews and is right in the centre of town.
This will be the last weekend of the annual Channel Islands ‘Tennerfest’, which runs from 1st of October to the 11th of November. The Tennerfest, which has been going for over 10 years, is a six week period in which over 180 restaurants across the Channel Islands have a special fixed price menu exclusive to the Tennerfest. So not surprisingly most of my suggested activities are based around food – mixed in with some sporty outdoor type things to justify all the food.
To get from the airport to the hotel take bus number 15 from outside the airport terminal. It goes roughly every 15 minutes and costs £1.70 for an adult fare (Use the handy Journey Planner to check bus times).
After dumping your bags head to the St Helier bus station and take the number 22 bus towards L’etacq. Get of at St Ouen’s beach close to El Tico’s Restaurant (ask the driver if you are not sure where to get off).
Laneez is the surf shop on the beach next to El Tico’s you can rent a surfboard and a wetsuit for £10 for 2 hours, or all day for £20. If you have never surfed before, no problem, they also offer lessons. The surf is best at St Ouen’s at mid- to low- tide so check the times before you set off. If you don’t fancy a surf, St Ouen’s is Jersey’s longest beach, great for a nice walk to stretch your legs after the flight.
The Collas Crill Island Walk, formally known as the Itex Walk is the annual 48 mile round the Island walk to raise money for charity. On their website the walk is broken down into 13 stages of varying length and difficulty. Pick a stage that suits you and go for a walk to explore the island.
Alternatively there are the ‘Aletrails’ which are six walking routes put together by Visit Jersey, described as ‘walking routes to build thirst’ – they all end at pubs, which is very convenient. You can download the PDF and print it out to take with you before you go. I would pick Walk 4, which is a bit more challenging and starts and ends at the Vic in the Valley pub. They are offering two courses for £10 and three courses for £12.50, check out the menu here (open for lunch between 12 and 4.30pm). To get there take bus 28 or bus 8 from the bus station in St Helier.
If the weather holds out why not make the most of your last day in Jersey and take a guided bike tour around the island – starting at £25 per person including equipment hire the rides can be tailored to your group.
Afterwards try out another of the Tennerfest menus at the Adelphi Lounge in St Helier, click here for menu. They are offering two courses for £10 or three courses for £12.50 (open for lunch between 12 and 2.30pm).
December: Berlin, Germany. Saturday 6th of December – Tuesday 9th of December.
Two words. Christmas. Markets.
The Practical bits: Fly from London Stansted for £73 return.
Stay at Penthouse am Checkpoint Charlie in the centre of Berlin with AirBnB for just £105.50 per person based on two sharing. The Penthouse is in a prime location on Charlottenstraße (Charlotte Street) – see map below. Not only is it well connected for public transport, but it’s on the same street as the famous Fassbender-Rausch chocolate restaurant, and it is right next to the Christmas market WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt. To get from the airport to the city take the train, you can buy a Berlin WelcomeCard which covers public transport and also gives you a discount to selected tourist attractions.
Now for the fun parts. Berlin at Christmas is just incredible. The polar opposite to Oslo, everything here is great value compared to London. A mug of glühwein or beer will set you back around €3 (or about €4 if you want to keep the souvenir mug that it is served in).
Christmas market to do list:
Drink Glühwein – It is pretty chilly in Berlin in December, so wrap up warm and grab a mug of glühwein (german mulled wine) from one of the stalls as you wonder around the market.
Eat Bratwurst – Again super good value and amazingly tasty – will help keep you going on your Christmassy adventures.
Eat Cedar – Planked Salmon – The salmon steaks are nailed to the charred planks and then propped against the fire to cook. Then they are broken up and put in a bun with some herby mayonnaise. Totally amazing. And a good alternative to the bratwurst if you are not a meat eater!
Eat Chocolate Covered Fruit on Sticks – It wont keep you particularly warm, but it is really delicious. And healthy. Compared to a bratwurst. Maybe.
Drink more Glühwein – It really can get quite chilly! Plus the Christmas markets come into their own in the evenings, there is a fantastic atmosphere with lots of people meeting up to look around or have bite to eat and a drink, so stick around and get involved.
There are many great Christmas markets to choose from in Berlin, but my favourite were:
Alexanderplatz Christmas Market (Alexanderplatz, Berlin, 10178) – I will always have a soft spot for this market because it was the first one I had ever visited and I was beyond excited. Its also really close to some of the other markets so you can wander between them very easily.
WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt (Gendarmenmarkt, Berlin, 10117) – I really enjoyed this market, there were quite a few more covered/indoor sections with lots of hand made crafts. Including a man who made sculptures from antique cutlery, very cool. There was also entertainment in the evening. Plus it is across the road from the Penthouse am Checkpoint Charlie!
Winterwelt market at Potsdamer Platz (Potsdamer Platz, Berlin, 10785) – This Christmas market has curling and an apres ski party from 7pm! It is also next to Arkaden Shopping centre, so if your travel buddy is all Glühweined out, they can do a spot of shopping while you grab another bratwurst and some chocolate covered fruit!
Other things to do in Berlin:
Charlottenberg Palace – This beautiful 17th century Palace and Gardens is only a short train ride from the centre of town. We didn’t actually go inside, but did a self guided tour of the gardens from my guidebook. Plus there is a Christmas market in front of the Palace, so you are never too far away from a warming Glühwein!
Berlin TV Tower (Berliner Fernsehturm) – See the whole of the city from over 300m up! This is a popular attraction, so book ahead to avoid the waiting time, and go during the evening so you can see the city lit up late at night. The view from the top of the tower is fantastic. Un-like similar sites in other cities the TV tower is very reasonable, entry is €13 and a cocktail costs around €6/7. So make time to relax at the bar and enjoy the view, or why not make a dinner reservation at the TV Tower restaurant ‘Sphere’.
Chocolate restaurant – On the same street as the Penthouse am Checkpoint Charlie, opposite the entrance to the WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt Christmas market you will find the most amazing chocolate shop you have ever been too. There are huge intricate sculptures of buildings made of Chocolate as well as little Santas and tiny chocolate truffles. But thats not the best bit! Upstairs you will find a restaurant serving food and drink inspired by chocolate (even savoury main meals, crazy!). We only had time to dash in for a quick hot chocolate, but blimey, it was quite the hot chocolate indeed!
Walking tour of Berlin – Not being much of a history buff I found this tour fascinating! Learn all about WW2 and the years afterwards, and how the city is still recovering. Plus it’s a chance to see some of the famous sights while burning off a few of those bratwursts! But remember to wrap up warm, and take snacks. Nothing like a spot of ‘Hanger‘ to ruin your trip! With your Berlin WelcomeCard you get 25% of the walking tours with Insider Tours, the ‘Famous Insider Walk‘ leaves daily at 10am and cost €9 with the discount.
If these don’t grab your fancy see my post ‘How to Fly for £17 Return’ for tips on hunting out great travel deals.
All prices and availability were accurate on Tuesday 14th of October; please check websites for up to date pricing.
‘Pete….Pete…. Pst, Pete’
‘I think I’ve been stung by a weaver fish’
‘I doubt it, we haven’t been into the sea yet.’
The clouds roll around above us as if they haven’t quite decided where they are headed. Eventually, they slowly begin clearing to leave small patches of blue. I was worried about being cold but after carrying my surfboard down the long beach left behind by the retreating tide, I’m quite toasty in my wetsuit. It is turning into an epic summers day in Cornwall.
Today is the day we have been waiting for; Pete, the older brother of a childhood friend, and I are going to learn to surf. He has been living in Cornwall for a few months now and was waiting for a willing companion to learn with. Dave, our instructor, is sitting in the middle of our semi-circle of boards and after a quick safety chat (including the dreaded weaver fish) is giving us the low down. ‘The most important thing is to bend your knees, a lot of people tend to bend at the hips instead’.
Note to self:
Bend. Knees. Do not stick bottom in air.
With that we are set free into the shallows to try it out.
‘Loser buys the beers!!’
There is now a lot riding on this surfing malarkey – beer and dignity. And also the possibility of getting stung by a fish.
The first part was simple enough, pushing myself into a wave and gliding into the beach with my belly on the board like a very graceful beached sea creature. It was an amazing sensation and I can see how people get totally hooked to the rush of being swept away by the rippling water beneath you.
Now for the tricky bit. Dave had given us an on land demo of exactly how it was supposed to look. How hard can it be? I lurk in the waist deep water and let a few of the others give it a go first. No one seems to have been stung by a fish yet. This is a good sign.
I try to put my irrational fear of these mystical fish out of my mind and set my self up for a wave.
Drew, my long suffering boyfriend, has paddled out somewhere in the ‘back water’ (as the cool kids call it), being a seasoned surfer he has rented a board and is doing his own thing. Just as he pushes his board back out towards the sea to catch another wave, I feel my board start to move. I have caught the wave. Carefully moving my feet underneath me, I stand up. In my head I look like one of the girls from a billabong advert: knees bent, hair looking all surfery. In reality, my bottom could not be further into the air!!
The most important thing is that I stood up. Isn’t it?
Dave, our very patient and supportive instructor claps loudly from the shallows ‘Great Sarah! Well done!’.
After a few more waves interspersed with laughing loudly at myself and splashing around like a baby giraffe, we walk back up the beach.
‘Pete, I was clearly better than you, I think you need to get the beers in’
‘Don’t think so! I caught quite a few waves’
‘So did I! Actually come to think of it, Drew I only saw you catch one, I think its your round!’
Perranporth, about 10 miles from Truro is a nice sandy beach, very family and dog friendly. Great place to go for a walk, or a surf, or just grab a beer in England’s only bar on a beach, The Watering Hole. If you take lessons at Perranporth Surf School you will receive a discount card for food and drinks at the bar.
To book a lesson contact Gavin at Perranporth Surf School: firstname.lastname@example.org
See my video for an exclusive interview with Perranporth surf school and some local surfing knowledge!
If I am totally honest, before visiting Lake Garda I thought it was just for older people, but after experiencing it first hand it really does have something for everyone. Whether you like lounging by the pool, learning about history, or trekking up mountains, you will find it all here.
1. First stop Gelato– Italian ice-cream is at the top of my to-do list on this whistle stop Garda tour. Whether you grab one scoop to go, or sit down for a huge gelato sundae you can’t come to Italy without having one! Try the award winning Crisallo Gelateria next to the Ferry Terminal in Bardolino. (http://www.cristallogelateria.com/)
2. Go on a bike ride along the lake – Bike hire around Lake Garda is great value, averaging about €6 a day, or €4 for half a day. For a gentle ride to burn off your gelato go to Garda and back from Bardolino – it’s about a 30 minute round trip along the lake front. If you are after something a bit more challenging there are 400km of bike routes to choose from, so you will have no trouble finding something to suit your level. Download the ‘Garda App’ to your smart phone or pick up a bike map when you arrive to plan your route.
3. Learn about olive oil – The Turri family olive groves in Bardolino started in 1951 as the Fratelli Turri (Turri bros.) and they have been making olive oil for over 60 years. When Valentina, one of the Turri family, and our guide for the afternoon, told us the oil smelt of fresh cut grass and tomatoes I imagined it to be subtle hints. When she handed around half a shot glass full of oil and told us to slosh it through our teeth, I have to say I was unconvinced, but it really did taste of tomatoes. Whatever you do, buy some oil in the shop to take home with you. When I got back home and opened my supermarket olive oil I was disappointed to discover it doesn’t smell like tomatoes at all.
4. Have a nose around the shops – There are lots of small interesting shops in the villages around Lake Garda. Go to Desenzano for upmarket boutique shops, or Malcesine for winding cobbled streets with quirky shops selling everything from Italian leather shoes and bags to tourist trinkets. Also check out the outdoor market which travels around the lake – see http://www.lake-garda-revealed.com/lake-garda-markets.html for the market schedule.
5. Eat like a local – Here in the North of Italy it’s not just the typical Italian pizza and pasta to tempt your taste buds. Try a local dish with fish from the lake (Pike, Sardines or Trout), or if fish isn’t your thing try ‘Tagliata’ (sliced steak with parmesan shavings and rocket).
6. Visit a vineyard – Lamberti, a vineyard about a 10 minute drive in land from Bardolino, is currently celebrating its 50th anniversary. A tour of the vines and then wine tasting back at the shop with Giuseppe the Manager was a great afternoon. If you are interested in learning all about the wine from the region visit the lake during the Bardolino wine festival, celebrating its 82nd year in October (2-6th October 2014). For details follow the link below: http://www.gardanews.com/eventi_lagodigarda.php?id=348570
7. Drink like a local – There is no shortage of choice when it comes to local wines – After you have been on a vineyard tour I am sure you will be an expert – but just in case you don’t have time for the visit, here’s a lowdown on what to drink in Garda. If you like white, try ‘Lugana’, or alternatively ‘Bardolino’ comes in red or rose – made from a mix of grapes including Corvina, Robdinella and sometimes a bit of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Bardolino is a very light red wine, great as a refreshing drink on a warm day. If wine isn’t your thing try a ‘Hugo’, this cocktail originated from the south Tyrol in Austria, and is a very popular drink in Lake Garda. Made from Presecco, soda water, mint, and either ‘Sambuco’ an elderflower cordial or St Germain Elderflower Liqueur.
8. Get out on the water – Whether its pedalos in Garda or kayaking in Malcesine, there is a bit of everything when it comes to water sports. Torbole, at the North West of the lake is famous for windsurfing, as well as kitesurfing and sailing. We stopped off in Malcesine for a quick dip! Easy Kite is predominantly a kite surf centre but also offers paddle boarding and kayaking when there isn’t much wind about. You can hire a Paddleboard for €15 per hour, the club house itself is a great place to chill out and catch some sun with the roof terrace and deck chairs/ beanbags on the lake side. http://www.easykite.it/en/
9. See some live music – There is a lot on offer for music lovers around the lake. But if you only have one evening spare head to the Grand Hotel, in Gardone Riviera, directly on the lake front, this hotel is worth a visit in itself. Originally known as the Hotel Pizzoccolo, it has been open to guests since 1884 with many famous visitors over the years including Valentina Tereshkova, the first woman in space; Albert Sabin, who discovered the polio vaccine; and Sir Winston Churchill. The Whinnie’s bar was opened at the Grand Hotel in the 1990’s in memory of Churchill who, it is said, much enjoyed sipping his favourite champagne in this bar. The Whinnie’s bar has live music every evening (except Wednesday) from 9.30pm.
If you would prefer something outside head to the Vittoriale, house of Italian poet Gabriel d’Annunzio, who was also a guest at the Grand Hotel while waiting for his house to be ready. In the grounds of this amazing historical house there is a huge outdoor amphitheatre with a variety of acts from ballet to Brit pop legend Damon Albarn. For tickets visit their website: http://www.anfiteatrodelvittoriale.it/en/buy-online-tickets
10. Stop to smell the roses – Well, white honeysuckle actually according to Google and my limited knowledge of flowers! This wonderful small white flower gives off a sweet but subtle smell which wafts its way around the lake. Make time for a nice stroll along the lake front or take a seat on one of the well maintained benches and just watch the world go by, a perfect end to an action packed trip to Garda!
The ferry terminals are normally in the centre of town and you can buy a ticket when you get there. I found them to be reliable, and they run fairly frequently. Check out the time table to see where you can go:
The other option is the bus – not quite as reliable as the ferry, but cheaper!
Nearest airport: Verona
Airport to Verona centre via bus (€6 one way) takes 15 minutes and goes every 20 minutes.
The trains go to Desenzano (about 25 mins, €3.85) and Pesciera (about 15 mins, €3.30). For the train times check out the journey planner:
The local bus goes to other towns around the lake from Verona but can take about 3 hours depending on where you are going.
Other options would be car hire or hotel transfer.
Hammering the spike further into the barrel, he starts to decant the beer into large heavy stone mugs. The froth gushes over the rim as he slides it across the counter. Local Austrians bustle through collecting their steins and washing them under the golden taps of the huge fountain in the middle of the room, before getting them filled to the brim with the cold, golden liquid. This is the Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln, a brewery started by monks in 1621.
Collecting our beers we make our way into one of the halls and take a seat at a large wooden table. There are a real mix of people here: groups of locals in lederhausen, couples, tourists, old men with their own beer mugs and only their dog for company. People appear quite happy to come here alone; so there is plenty of opportunity to chat to people. On our table we meet an Italian who used to live in Salzburg and now works in Shanghai, here visiting old friends. Later we talk to a local engineer called Marcus who tells us about spending his spare time at the mountains and lakes nearby.
Seeing people wander in with plates of food we decide to look around. There is a long corridor with stalls selling traditional Austrian cuisine, bratwurst, pretzels, all the meat and all the cheese you could ever want; as well as one stall that appears to sell boiled eggs and prawn crackers. ‘No, no’, corrected Marcus, ‘that is horseradish. We eat it with the meat’.
Re-filling our mugs we sit down to soak up the atmosphere, people laughing and joking over huge plates of food and drinks. Marcus explains about the plaques that we have noticed, fixed all over the walls, covered with different scripts and styles. Any group that meets here regularly can assign themselves a table, and receives a plaque with their club name nailed next to their allotted meeting space. He continues to tell us about the history and traditions the of the city, the culture of music and the famous composer that once called Salzburg home. Mozart. ‘If you are interested in music there is somewhere you have to visit’, says Marcus excitedly, ‘give me your map I will show you where to go, it is about 30 minutes walk away, if you leave now you could make tonight’s showing!’.
Quickly finishing up the last of our beer and pretzels we were sad to be leaving as it seemed the atmosphere would only improve throughout the evening, but we had a concert to get to!
St. Peter Stiftskeller, the oldest restaurant in Europe, offers candle lit, three course dinners accompanied by a concert of Mozart’s work. This beautiful building in the Old Town can be found tucked away in a courtyard just off the DomPlatz.
As we take a seat in the grand, vaulted room decorated with chandeliers and gilt candle sticks, we order drinks and wait for the other tourists to fill our table. Joined by an Irish family and a couple from Lithuania we chat excitedly about our day in the city, swapping hints and tips of where to go next.
The lights drop down and the musicians in period dress take to the stage. As the violins strike up everyone falls silent. The five-piece orchestra are joined by two opera singers and soon the whole room is mesmerised by their beautiful classical songs.
Between each of the three courses they take to the stage again playing highlights from Mozart’s classic operas. The atmosphere is truly magical, with food to match; desert is served with a chocolate silhouette of the man himself to accompany the grand finale. When I look at the drinks bill I almost spit my Gin and tonic all over the finely laid table, but I have to say, even at over €10 a drink, it was worth it. We finish the evening with a walk through the old town, taking in the evening air along the Salzach river.
Where to stay:
When planning your trip:
St. Peter Stiftskeller – Dinner concert €54
Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln – See website for opening times and directions
Fortress Hohensalzburg – €11.30 Adult ticket including the train ride up
Mirabell Palace Gardens – Entrance to the Gardens is free
Having been a competent skier from a young age trusting someone else to guide me down the busy slopes of La Plagne took a fair amount of convincing. After being strapped in to the ‘sit-ski’, which could be described as a wheelchair on skis, we set off towards the chairlift. I had been skiing with instructor Careen and a young sit-skier Bryony for 2 days, helping Careen lift Bryony on and off the chairlift, so it was an odd sensation to be lifted on my self. Matt, a fellow DSUK helper, was using me as a crash test dummy on his first ever attempt to ‘bucket’ the sit-ski down the beginners run outside our hotel.
Sit-ski’s are used for skiers with all sorts of disability and can either be ‘bucketed’ where the skier is guided using a handle on the back of the ski, ‘teathered’ which gives the skier more independence with the instructor using two lengths of rope attached to the ski to support them, or the sit-ski can be used completely independently if the skier is able.
As we set off from the top of the slope Matt sounded nervous. Careen assured me that, even if Matt drops the ski, as long as I keep my arms tucked in I’ll be absolutely fine. So as Matt guided us down the slope calling out the turns as we wove left and right through the other skiers, I concentrated on my two jobs: turning my head at the right time and keeping my arms safe inside the ski. As Matt and I carved through the snow, working as a team to move the ski, I began to relax and enjoy the ride, it was a lot lower to the slope than being a stand up skier, and because you don’t move your body as much I began to get a little chilly, but it was a lot more enjoyable than I had imagined and I can understand how sit-skiers become totally addicted and come back year after year.
One sit-ski addict, who has been skiing with DSUK for almost 20 years, is Sarah. Being more experienced than either Bryony or I in a sit-ski, Sarah had moved on to being ‘teathered’ by Careen and could ski blue slopes using ‘fixed out riggers’, which are a small ski either side of the sit-ski allowing it to carve from side to side with out falling over. I watched amazed as Sarah cruised down the mountain, and controlled the ski with only small movements of her head and slight leaning of her upper body. It was certainly a lot more graceful than my descent down the slope after her on my skis, trying to keep up.
As a group of 25 or so people including, skiers, helpers, instructors and carers or family members it took a lot of organising for everyone to do things together. Despite that we all ate together and socialised in the evenings, it was a great opportunity to chat more to the skiers and their families, catch up on everyone’s skiing progress and hear the stories from the day.
DSUK are a British charity that have been around in one form or another for about 30 years. Amongst other things they arrange group holidays for disabled skiers with any type of disability; from amputees to people with epilepsy. They say that there is almost no-one they can’t get out on the slopes enjoying the mountain air, and after seeing them in action I believe it. To check out more about what they do and events or programmes near you have a look at their website: www.disabilitysnowsport.org.uk/
Its 4am, my transfer coach leaves in 45 minutes. I stand in the kitchen of my sister’s hotel, scoffing cold left over noodles. Desperately trying to sober up before I prepare to sneak back into the hotel room and pretend I have been there for hours. ‘You stink,’ mumbles my dad half asleep. I continue to enter the room about as subtly as one can after several jagerbombs, ‘And you haven’t packed. We leave in half an hour.’
This came about after months of crackly drunken calls from my sister on the way home from another amazing night out in Obergurgl, she was there working in a hotel for the winter season. ‘I just had four pints and then went night skiing and danced on tables, they were on fire!’ She screams down the phone at me. This was something I had to see.
Having always skied in France as a child, I was largely unfamiliar with Austrian resorts, let alone the crazy après parties they are famous for. Now with litre of beer in one hand and a shot of tequila in the other we are merrily swaying around in our ski boots waiting for the ski show to start. Every Tuesday evening in Obergurgl there is a ski show and fireworks followed by night skiing. I had been to this sort of thing before, but nothing could prepare me for the amazing event I was about to witness; what appeared to be a small child raced down the mountain on their skis over what looked like snowy steps and then jumped through a ring of fire. ‘We have to try that!’ I merrily exclaimed.
The next day, with the mountain air slowly clearing my hungover fuzzy brain, we meet up with Johan, our ski instructor. ‘So you want to try the steps, huh?’ As he says this I am massively regretting saying yes to that final stein of beer.
‘The trick is to relax your legs,’ Johan explains as he takes on the steps with ease, gracefully stopping at the bottom. It’s another beautifully clear day at the top of the mountain, and the sun glistens off the snow. I can hear the wiring of the gondola as it unloads excited mountain goers. Deep breath, and down I go. I point my skis at the steps, inside my head Frankie goes to Hollywood is singing encouragingly ‘Relax, don’t do it, when you want to go to it…’ Suddenly my legs have a life of their own, I have made it half way down, my skis are gliding rhythmically over the snowy mounds. I open my mouth to celebrate my successful descent a minute too early, and slide the remainder of the way on my back, collecting snow down the back of my jacket. As I lay there on the cold refreshing powder, I can’t help thinking that I should have stuck to the après.
To see more of the trip check out my Obergurgl video: